TECH TALK - ask your technical car questions

RSZETEC · Post by **RSZETEC** » 28 Jan 2007, 22:19

Dunno, Just did it replacing the head gasket thankfully cos id probably have some bent valves aswell if it where running,I think the guy at the ford garage gave me the wrong tightening sequence, he maybe heard me say "fiesta" and "zetec" and thought it was a zetec s not an SI and gave the the sequence for a zetec SE engine. then again as steelsnake says it maybe a design fault with the cam itself. its all sorted now cos imanaged to get a brand new ford one for 20 pounds

steelsnake00 · Post by **steelsnake00** » 28 Jan 2007, 23:22

If the tightening was incorrect, it would shear angularly, or shatte. Plus you would need to exert ALOT of force on it to do that. My money's on a design fault

RSZETEC · Post by **RSZETEC** » 28 Jan 2007, 23:44

Yeah your most likely right, I suppose there is a bright side tho at least it happened when the engine was static not going full chat otherwise as i said before id probably have at leas 2 bent valves and i dont fancy shelling out for another head gasket set and bolts when that ones just on today

SomeKindOfMonster · Post by **SomeKindOfMonster** » 29 Jan 2007, 04:02

If your talking about the tightening sequence for head bolts, i've always worked from the inside out, in like a spiral pattern, and it is the safest way to do it. If you're talking about tightening down the bridges over the camshaft, same thing applies but only tighten them a few turns at a time, going over the whole set about 4 times. That way everything pulls down even and there shouldnt be any drama's. If the cam was timed right it shouldn't have bent any valves I wouldn't think, but i'm used to working on toyota and holden and don't know a great deal about fords

boganbusman · Post by **boganbusman** » 29 Jan 2007, 08:56

I think they're talking about bearing cap bolts, not head bolts

Still, a similar method is used.

SomeKindOfMonster · Post by **SomeKindOfMonster** » 30 Jan 2007, 04:23

Yeah bridges, cap bolts, lol all the same. Still valves shouldnt bend unless timing is out should they? Or if the timing belt snaps while driving. But if you've done a head gasket and tightened everything down in a snail pattern, should be any drama's.

Tunerfreak · Post by **Tunerfreak** » 30 Jan 2007, 12:13

Im getting slightly confused by the performance of my car

My 1600cc 16 valve Sprinter Marino 4A-FE (116ps approx) seems to be outpreforming every 2 litre car I know, its recently had overheating problems rendering the piston rings quite fried and I have to keep topping up oil, also the gearbox is rather weak and I always shift slow to avoid syncro damage and crunching. I also hardly ever launch the car very hard. The back is weighed down massively by my toolbox, giant sub box and a bunch of other bits. The only mods lay at a freebie pod filter which I expected to lose power with but installed it anyway and a rather low performance freebie muffler.

One of my freinds purchased a perfectly well running 1991 3S-F 2L Corona (130ps approx?) only to be absolutely destroyed by my car, although being the carburrated version and automatic it isnt a great supprise.

Another one of my freinds picked up a great condition manual 1997 Toyota Curren 3S-FE 2L (140ps?) expecting to kill my car only to find his car way behind mine with him as the only person in the car and 4 people in mine, this striked me as rather strange.

One of my not so freinds owns a manual Subaru Legacy RS turbo (210ps?) with an upgraded turbo which im sure is way to big for the engine causing lag, but little did I expect to actually beat it, not by much but a win none the less, now im wondering what the hell must be wrong with his car.

I don't know why my cheap bad condition 1600 car is running circles around everyone else and I was wondering if you guys had any idea? One theory I have is just that they are all bad drivers

boganbusman · Post by **boganbusman** » 30 Jan 2007, 13:06

Yes they could be bad drivrers, plus your car might be lighter, or you might have smaller wheels, or you might have a shorter final drive, or a combination of all those.

Post by **GT3x24x7** » 30 Jan 2007, 15:14

Wanna take on my little 2.5l, TF?

PSZeTa · Post by **PSZeTa** » 30 Jan 2007, 16:24

He'd drive you home for good. :3

Lan.Evo.III · Post by **Lan.Evo.III** » 30 Jan 2007, 18:57

Does anyone here know anything about the Fueltronics brand?

SomeKindOfMonster · Post by **SomeKindOfMonster** » 30 Jan 2007, 23:17

Tunerfreak: same thing used to happen to me, I have a commodore with the Buick 3.8 litre in it, and I used to smoke the 304ci (5litre) V8's, and even keep level with the Gen III's (5.7) Turned out that the buicks are just a harder revving motor, plus the power to weight difference.
Lan.Evo.III, never heard of fueltronics, what do they supply?

Lan.Evo.III · Post by **Lan.Evo.III** » 31 Jan 2007, 03:25

Fuel Injectors, and complete engine work, when I get my Saab back, I will take a picture of the engine, and show you it. It's sucks to work with because there is hardly any information on the brand.

steelsnake00 · Post by **steelsnake00** » 31 Jan 2007, 19:47

GT3x24x7 wrote:Wanna take on my little 2.5l, TF?

Go on

viper16 · Post by **viper16** » 01 Feb 2007, 04:45

is it possible to put a 3SGTE or a 2JZTE in a AE86 or AE92

boganbusman · Post by **boganbusman** » 01 Feb 2007, 09:37

Is it possible? Of course.

Is it viable? Probably not.

Grez~Supra_RZ-S · Post by **Grez~Supra_RZ-S** » 01 Feb 2007, 10:45

Actually youd be surprised. The 3S-GTE takes to 4A-GE engined cars pretty well, particularly the AW11. However, the SR20 goes into the AE86 particularly easily by all accounts, so that would be my option. They both have the strength and potential to be great engines. As for the other, Im assuming you meant ''2JZ-GTE''? In which case no, being a 6-shooter rather than a four, the block in comparison is massive. You probably could get it in, but with the money spent, it wouldnt be worth it.

Wanna take on my little 2.5l, TF?

Whos up for an NFSUnlimited four-way?

SomeKindOfMonster · Post by **SomeKindOfMonster** » 01 Feb 2007, 11:14

I'd got the SR 20, plenty of potential in them for a small engine. You'd never fit the 2JZ without modding the front end, and probably the tunnel as well. Would cost a fortune.

The Gravedigger · Post by **The Gravedigger** » 01 Feb 2007, 11:36

Grez~Supra_RZ-S wrote:Whos up for an NFSUnlimited four-way?

Now, now.... there's kiddies here, they'll get the wrong idea.

steelsnake00 · Post by **steelsnake00** » 01 Feb 2007, 12:41

The Gravedigger wrote:
Grez~Supra_RZ-S wrote:Whos up for an NFSUnlimited four-way?
Now, now.... there's kiddies here, they'll get the wrong idea.

BWAHAHA

Grez~Supra_RZ-S · Post by **Grez~Supra_RZ-S** » 01 Feb 2007, 22:41

I think what started as genuine concern has just turned into the most disgusting sexual innuendo Ive ever had to be a part of.

RSZETEC · Post by **RSZETEC** » 04 Feb 2007, 15:36

Right got the top end back together and it runs........for about a second, im thinking perhaps one of the cams are out maybe a degree or 2 or the iscv aint doin its job right, Id know normally but im used to cars with a points distrubutor system a carb and one cam

SomeKindOfMonster · Post by **SomeKindOfMonster** » 06 Feb 2007, 04:18

Is it running rough when it does run? I'd check the cam timing, and then maybe do a reset (If possible) With the commodores, you can unplug the battery for 30 mins or so, and then when you start the vehicle hold it at about 3000 rpm for 8 seconds, and that will reset your IAC etc. Not sure if this will work on your car, or if there is a different procedure. But first I'd be checking Timing, Fuel and Spark. Doesnt matter if its points or coilpacks, an engine still needs the 3 basics to run. So check things like fuel suply and pressure, and that you are getting a good spark.

Toshiro · Post by **Toshiro** » 07 Feb 2007, 00:59

How exactly do Turbos and Superchargers work?

I have the general idea....

PSZeTa · Post by **PSZeTa** » 07 Feb 2007, 01:44

In short:

Forced induction -> Instead of a self-breathing engine, force compressed air into engine. More air usually equals more oxygen.

Look it up at HowStuffWorks or Wikipedia for exact details..