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PSZeTa · Post by **PSZeTa** » 19 Mar 2006, 03:39

Dragster wrote:I have a question:

Stock wheels on my dad's Opel Corsa are 185/55 R15, and I was wondering could I fit 7,0 x 15 rims on the stock tires, because it would be a lot cheaper... The tires are brand new, Continental...

No.

Post by **GT3x24x7** » 19 Mar 2006, 05:56

Hang on, 185mm is 7.3" and the rim diameter is the same, so why wouldn't those tyres fit 7x15" rims?

xHaZxMaTx · Post by **xHaZxMaTx** » 19 Mar 2006, 06:09

Because your rims are 3" too small.

Post by **GT3x24x7** » 19 Mar 2006, 15:06

Hmm, I must be missing something here..

xHaZxMaTx · Post by **xHaZxMaTx** » 19 Mar 2006, 16:08

Hmm, if what I said was wrong, disregard it, I don't know too much about tire sizes and what not.

SkeeteRX7 · Post by **SkeeteRX7** » 18 Apr 2006, 02:59

Ok, I've got a problem.

We are getting new tires for our Subaru Outback Limited wagon. It currently runs on P225/60HR16 97H Firestone Wilderness stock (crap) tires.

Here are some considerations

Bridgestone Potenza G009
BFGoodrich Traction T/A H
Goodyear Eagle GT-HR
Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus
Yokohama Avid H4

Sweet-16 · Post by **Sweet-16** » 18 Apr 2006, 04:05

michelin tires are pretty good. my dad used to work for them. BF Goodrich isn't bad either.. just my two opinions. if you want to go for the gold: Pirelli tires

[Alice] · Post by **[Alice]** » 18 Apr 2006, 04:20

Does anyone know the average annual insurance cost of a third generation Mazda RX-7? It's really the number one factor holding me back from seeking out one to buy. I'm under 26, I wear glasses, and I'm sure they are counted as sports cars, so I'm certain the insurance will really kill me right now if I try to get one as a project car during tech school.

Post by **GT3x24x7** » 18 Apr 2006, 16:20

Your age alone makes you a Class 1 risk and the InsCo's will treat you as exactly that. The RX7 is definitely in the sports car class, and in Australia the only thing that could push the premium further is if you turbo'd the thing or took it racing. Safe to say your premiums will be at maximum. As for pricing, not being stateside I can't hazard a guess.

My advice would probably be to (carefully) tool about in an old banger that you can self-insure for a few years and take another crack at the RX once you build a little driving credit by virtue of age and record.

Toshiro · Post by **Toshiro** » 18 Apr 2006, 18:02

I advise you not to buy a FD. Get a 240SX and crank that up.

Both are RWD's, and are shaped similarly (hatchback, long front, 2 door).

[Alice] · Post by **[Alice]** » 18 Apr 2006, 21:19

Well, a friend is interested in selling me his naturally aspirated FC for $300. It's a five speed and runs fine. My other option is another friend's S14 Kouki style 240SX, but he wants $500 and the tranny is sh*t. That, and his LSD is so bloody shot that it makes funny noises. I can't quite afford the upkeep on the 240, and I likely can't afford the insurance on the FC.

What's a guygal to do?

steelsnake00 · Post by **steelsnake00** » 18 Apr 2006, 21:52

Look for another 240?
Buy something cheaper?
If you don't mind FWD, try and get your hands on a Corrado (though I think a VR6 insurance would be killer), but tranny's aren't too hard to change over, and there are enough people writing off 240's in drifting (or attempted drifting) accidents that there should be plenty of spares.

[Alice] · Post by **[Alice]** » 18 Apr 2006, 22:40

Well, drifting at the track is a large interest for me. I'd prefer RWD, as I already have a Plymouth Voyager and a 2000 Neon to get around in. Ah well. There is a Volvo 240 I'm looking at for around $200. I do believe the sedan model is RWD, is it not? I could just save up a little extra cash and do an engine swap for some more power. I thinik it'd make a pretty nifty little drift car.

steelsnake00 · Post by **steelsnake00** » 19 Apr 2006, 09:26

What I'd be interested to see at some stage is an E30/E360 M3 drift car. It wouldn't be too difficult to build to be honest, some KW Coilovers, a rollcage, Quaiffe Differential, uprated clutch, engine ported & polished, gas flowed and running on better cam profiles and a chip- easy 360bhp and 370lb/ft, and good enough handling to stay on the right end of it.

Though a RWD Volvo with an engine swap would be highly comic, I'm not sure its exactly feasable.

Felixkissa · Post by **Felixkissa** » 19 Apr 2006, 16:40

[Alice] wrote:S14 Kouki style 240SX, but he wants $500 and the tranny is sh*t. That, and his LSD is so bloody shot that it makes funny noises.

I paid 12 000 € (roughly $14000) for a S14 200SX, tho it was fully working but also almost stock. I wonder what kinda S14 I could've had in the US with that money.

sorry about the OT

SkeeteRX7 · Post by **SkeeteRX7** » 28 Apr 2006, 02:00

SE3P.......JDM Spec, with Mazdaspeed body and suspension.

Well, my grandpa gave me a car...though im only 14.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 240D 4-speed.

I'm converting it to run on veggie oil.

But, im saving up for....an SE3P.

xHaZxMaTx · Post by **xHaZxMaTx** » 28 Apr 2006, 04:06

RX-8's have bad fuel economy.

boganbusman · Post by **boganbusman** » 28 Apr 2006, 04:13

xHaZxMaTx wrote:RX-8's have bad fuel economy.

Yep, any rotary will have poor fuel economy, and cost a fair bit to maintain.

SkeeteRX7 · Post by **SkeeteRX7** » 28 Apr 2006, 04:18

I can't get up a hill in the 240D, its so slow.

My parents' Subaru Outback Limited wagon can get up it faster. (0-60 in 10.5 secs)

And so can my dad's Buick LeSabre (got it from old aunt).

I can't wait for an RX-8. Even a Sport AT!

steelsnake00 · Post by **steelsnake00** » 28 Apr 2006, 09:41

I don't massively like rotaries to be honest. 60% reliability rating from RX7's, RX8's still eat apex seals and fuel.
Which way do I go with the Audi now I've got my Civil Service Job? Either:
- Work on the engine and drivetrain; S1 intercooler, S1 6-speed box, uprated Garrett/Mitsubushi T3/T4 hybrid, Haltech ECU, Custom oil cooler, high-flow cats and skimmed head, Quaiffe diff and the RH ZW1 alloys. Est. cost ~Â£5000, 490whp (ish)

or
-Ballance it out. The oil cooler's a nessesity now I've upped the boost, so a Greddy boost controller might be the way to go to keep levels running correct. Uprated throttle bodies would be nice, and give better response if not a reasonable hp boost. Quaiffe differential and directing more power through the rear rubber, Ground Control camber plates, RH ZW1 alloys, a VR6-style front splitter in CF, and a nice shiny cage. Est. cost ~Â£3000, alot more in the looks department but probably 425whp.

Seen as the car's doing 4.8s 0-60's, putting out 371whp and burning a sub-12 quater, I think its probably time to focus on something other than how much power its getting down on the road.

xHaZxMaTx · Post by **xHaZxMaTx** » 29 Apr 2006, 00:25

I'd say go for the second option.

SkeeteRX7 · Post by **SkeeteRX7** » 30 Apr 2006, 00:38

SkeeteRX7 wrote:I can't get up a hill in the 240D, its so slow.

My parents' Subaru Outback Limited wagon can get up it faster. (0-60 in 10.5 secs)

And so can my dad's Buick LeSabre (got it from old aunt).

I can't wait for an RX-8. Even a Sport AT!

Well, 2006 RX-8's fixed the main engine problems, and gave the Sport AT 6 gears.

steelsnake00 · Post by **steelsnake00** » 30 Apr 2006, 07:25

SkeeteRX7 wrote: Well, 2006 RX-8's fixed the main engine problems, and gave the Sport AT 6 gears.

Still drink fuel

xHaZxMaTx · Post by **xHaZxMaTx** » 30 Apr 2006, 07:52

I say either get a hybrid or a vehicle able to run bio-diesel. =D

Blaster14 · Post by **Blaster14** » 01 May 2006, 21:55

Convertibles would be neat. And the VW Beetle!

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