Help with prelude turbo

flatblacksleeper · Post by **flatblacksleeper** » 16 Dec 2004, 03:47

hi Guys

My freind has a 99 presulde with the h22a vtec enginge. He has a intake thats drilled thorguh the fire wall and a exhaust and short throw, hes looking to turbo his car, i found only two kits worth metionings,the greddy one and the Turbonetis one, dont know which one is better, the one by turbonetics has more stuff included and claims 270 on 8 psi, the greddy one does not have a lot and does not tell how much HP it claims to make nor what psi, i was wondering does any one know which ones beter, or anyting that would help, plus any tips with selecting and installing a turbo, thnaks a lot guys

MoWGLi · Post by **MoWGLi** » 16 Dec 2004, 04:05

Build the motor up as all motor first, then think about turboing it. Your going to have to do the internals anyway or you wont be able to run any significant ammounts of boost. Then piece together your own turbo kit with off the shelf parts and some custom made parts. Its what we did for my friends prelude and my other friends H22A turboed EG hatch.

flatblacksleeper · Post by **flatblacksleeper** » 16 Dec 2004, 04:13

thats what i probably would have though to, but i dont think he wants if for the track, just for daily driving. I think these are the parts nessecary for a daily dring without really touching the internals, what do you think

intercooler
BLow off valve
STRONG inake and exhaust manifolds
Bigger fuel injectors and fuel line
Low PSI
Turbo Timer
fuel mag and fuel pump
Heat shields
Maybe new oil pan and such

Ive heard that there can be some problmes invoving VTEC, is that true, thanks again

MoWGLi · Post by **MoWGLi** » 16 Dec 2004, 04:30

Intercooler: is a must unless you you can get away with a Aquamist system.
BOV: although you can run without one, you must have a ball bearing turbo to support the compressor surge, but in other words for him, yes he needs one, a stock 1G DSM one will work fine.
Intake and exhaust manifolds: No need for a new intake manifold if you are running low boost. You will need a new exhaust manifold if you are going turbo. If you want to step it up abit for an efficiant equal length manifold you can, but dont get tricked into the ebay ones.
Injectors, and other fuel things: I would suggest getting an up rated fuel pump, walbro is an excellent company. If you ran bigger injectors and new fuel pump, i would also suggest he gets an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Aeromotive makes a quality one. Also replace all fuel lines with new ones that can handle the increased pressure, steel is best.
Turbo timer: it is not nessicery, but it is strongly advised.
Heat shield: you will need one for the turbo and downpipe to be safe, i would personally suggest a wrap type of insulator instead of the usual metal one. It helps the turbo spool quicker.
Oil pan: no need for one, all though i would advise an oil cooler.

Other things you havent said:
Exhaust: with it being low boost, a full turbo back 2 and 1/2 inches will be enough. 3" is only for higher boost applications, allthough you could put a 3" on and it wouldnt hurt.
Piggy back computer system: If it is infact a V-Tec H22, you can use the A'PEXi V-AFC, it controls both V-Tec and air/fuel maps. The piggy back is a MUST!

Thats all i can think of right now. Hope this helps.

boganbusman · Post by **boganbusman** » 16 Dec 2004, 04:35

Intercooler is not necessary for a low boost system (5psi or less). Aquamist will do just fine.

And a turbo timer is only necessary if you can't be bothered to sit in the car for 30 seconds before you get out.

MarlboroMan · Post by **MarlboroMan** » 21 Dec 2004, 17:29

are those turbo kits a bolt-on turbo ??

H22A low compression piston will only available in custom made or aftermarket parts manufacturer. I think usually it will be very expansive.
Well here depends on your budget. If you have a quite a sum of money go ahead for the full turbo(running 1 bar).

If you are going from a plain stock engine and on budget go slow, (like me, i am a poor car mod person), you know, just start with an air filter, exhaust manifold (4-2-1, 4-1 depends which performance you like), exhaust piping and muffler, port polishing and other those basics.

you will reach a stage where you need to strengthen your chassis. where power going too wild (hard rev cornering). i have a suggestion, there is one chassis fluid where it creates bubbles. "Montage Schaum Plus" or equivalent, filled this up to your chassis.

** If your car engine is overpower and your chassis can't handles, it will distort, running out of shape, you will get alot trouble where suspension always breaks etc.

A little piece of advice, i wouldn't go for low boost turbo, i would keep more cash for a full turbo. If it is going be a permanant one its okay to go low boost. If you plan to futher enhance all the way, direct go for the full turbo. its more worth the money than buying diffrent turbines & etc.

boganbusman · Post by **boganbusman** » 22 Dec 2004, 01:52

MarlboroMan wrote:you will reach a stage where you need to strengthen your chassis. where power going too wild (hard rev cornering). i have a suggestion, there is one chassis fluid where it creates bubbles. "Montage Schaum Plus" or equivalent, filled this up to your chassis.

** If your car engine is overpower and your chassis can't handles, it will distort, running out of shape, you will get alot trouble where suspension always breaks etc.

I never knew that you could just fill your chassis with foam.

Surely a couple of strut braces and/or a roll cage would work better?

MoWGLi · Post by **MoWGLi** » 22 Dec 2004, 03:35

Usually riviting or spot welding the body will do just fine, along with the normal upgraded motor mounts and selected bars (i.e. strut tower bar). Or if you are going crazy, tube chassis.

MarlboroMan · Post by **MarlboroMan** » 22 Dec 2004, 04:56

well its actually not quite a fluid. that "Motage Shcaum Plus" i mentioned is 1 kind of spray, just a little spray of that, the substance will create alot bubbles, and when it drys up it will makes alot honeycombs alike structure inside your chassis. Well i suggest this method because it is cheap and its lightweight, and you can DIY in your garage. use a tape to close some of the "holes" in your chassis (whenever see fit, this is to prevent the substance flow out of it), and start spraying them in from other un-covered "holes". This method is just fine for low boost/blower and NA engine. But if you going full/Big crazy turbo (over 1 bar its consider a big turbo in my opinion), MoWGLi said it, you still need chassis wielding, extra chassis frame (the "cross" frame, "#" hash frame) struts bar etc etc.(these are more expansive in my country, consider my currency and quality of life

), overall all these will addup to your chassis stiffness.

I am sorry i am in a small Asia country, many of the terms may sounds different to the USA. Yet i wish we can discuss more, feels good to discuss with you guys.

My country is a hot and humid country, so we have disadvatage, our normal temp is reach 34 degree celcius, oil cooler for a full/big turbo engine is pretty normal here, yet as you knows hot air's oxygen density is not high, a 400 ps is considered a powerful car in my country.

boganbusman · Post by **boganbusman** » 22 Dec 2004, 04:59

What the hell is 'ps' ?

MarlboroMan · Post by **MarlboroMan** » 22 Dec 2004, 05:20

as i said my terms/abbreviations is different. Well, PS/HP/BHP thier value not too much different 400ps is approx 400 BHp as well as 400 metric HP. My country is a JDM imports.

BHP = Brake Horse Power.
WHP = Wheel Horse Power
NMT = Newton Meters Torque
PS = PferdestÃ¤rke (1.0 PS = 0.9863 HP.) Used by japan
kW = Kilowatt (1.0 kW = 1.34 HP) Used by Germany and other in Europe.

(extracted from : http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149148) interesting page.

Post by **TheStig** » 22 Dec 2004, 07:29

and PS is used in germany

(hence the name)

MarlboroMan · Post by **MarlboroMan** » 22 Dec 2004, 08:30

yes Stig, PS is in german. but when you access those japs page about cars, for example: http://www.daihatsu.co.jp , the car's flywheel horse are all in PS or kW. Don't ask me why japan is using PS or kW, i think you know why.

Post by **TheStig** » 23 Dec 2004, 03:44

I think cause Japanese people are smart, so they use the Metric system

MarlboroMan · Post by **MarlboroMan** » 23 Dec 2004, 05:25

yeah japanese are smart, how the hell the creates a 125 flywheel PS per liter from the Honda F20C in NA (no force induction), that really scares me. F20C stock factory flywheel horse 250PS, thats a pretty high efficiency engine. I believe that the F20C is another racing breed engine, just that is in NA, main selling point is the high reving engine characteristic.

*Popular recently appeared Honda mod company "JS" in japan tunned to F20C to 320PS NA.